Venice: Where to stay – Venezia’s geographу

 

 

Here comes a bit on the Venice’s geography. Venice is spread around la laguna on more than a hundred small islands connected by the bridges – what creates its charm… the houses are built on the wooden pillars, quite delicate structure yet the one that’s proven to survive during the centuries… Maintenance of the houses is costly: buildings absorb the water and oftentimes the owner is not aware of the growing damage. This is the reason for many residents moving out to Mestre – a new part of the city located on the terrafirma (mainland) connected to Venice by the Liberty bridge. Nowadays, the population of Venice is just 58,000 people. Only those with money may afford to buy (and constantly maintain) apartments in Venezia. This is one of the reasons why the hotels are quite expensive. Another one is that there are twenty million visitors arrive in Venice every year!


 

Looking on the map of Venice, it’s evident that it looks like a jumbo fish with the head turned to mainland and the tail facing the island of Lido. The city is divided in six neighborhoods – called sestieri – namely,

 

  v Santa Croce – the head of the “fish”, the area in the West that homes the train station, the bus station on the Piazzale Roma, and the Liberty bridge connecting Venice with the mainland.

 

  • v    Dorsoduro – the “chest”, a district on the South of the city, not so populated by the tourists, the place of most local eateries and most quiet streets. The Venice university is also located here making it the vibrant district full of young people. Foreigners (that is, the “advanced” tourists) love it.

 

  • v Canareggio – the “back”, the area to the North–West of San Marco, the place where the residents mostly live, the place to many Bysantine style building and palaces, as well as Strada Nova, one of the Venice’s most famous streets.

 

  • vCastello, the tail, the largest and the oldest sestiere located to the East of the city, is known as the place of Biennale and beautiful Giardini (the gardens). It is the place of residence of many citizens, as well as of the most important Venice’s industries. As it is a bit more remote, the walk there is worth it if you have spare time.

 

  • vSan Marco – the “belly” (the famous San Marco square and around), most populated with the tourists zone, and

 

  • vSan Polo – the middle, the prettiest sestiere in my opinion. The liveliest quarter that runs from the Rialto bridge to Rio di San Polo, the home to many beautiful churches and nice local taverns.

 

 

The most expensive hotels would be located along the Grand Canal, close to San Marco square and around the Rialto bridge. However, that doesn’t automatically imply they are the most convenient location–wise. For a non–lazy tourist living somewhere in San Polo or Dorsoduro would not only help saving money but also to avoid the crowds of tourists and experiencing pure Venice – that is, give a chance of breathing in the fantasy of Venezia by finding their way back home through its mysterious streets…… It would be helpful if the vaporetto station is located nearby, although not a must.

 


 

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A good experience could be renting a room or an apartment – as many foreigners are buying flats to rent them out. Normally, there are grocery shops called “Coop” and “Billa” in the residential areas, which gives you freedom to buy whatever of the Italian delicacies you’d like at a retail (not a restaurant) price.  If we start talking about food, there are notably a number of fruttovendolo, or the barks selling fresh fruits and vegetables, which I found delicious. Please note that in Italy it is expected that the vendor chooses the fruit for you himself, so if you (by pure accident) would touch it, that'd make him very much upset. 

 

In places like Guidecca, where the residents live, there are shops selling fresh daily catch. They open as early as 5am. There is a rule in Venice concerning fish: don’t order fish in restaurants on Monday’s because la Pescheria (the fish market) is closed Mondays and the fish will not be fresh.

 

 


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To see la Pescheria and la Erberia (vegetable market) in full swing, suggest you take a tour of Rialto market, which is located near the Rialto bridge.

 

The best food, however, is in…… Bologna! Which is just 1 hour and 20 minutes away by the fast train, Freciargento. Consider a one-day visit to enjoy the hearty dishes and meet really friendly warm local residents. For the truffle–lovers, the trip is an absolute must – as well as for those who love mortadella, salami, grano padano cheese, balsamic vinegar, green lasagna, spaghetti Bolognese and other delicatessen. J 

 

 

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